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3,000 Years of Starting Over

6 min read

At the Humboldt Forum — Berlin's most contested cultural stage — some 300 million people's 3,000-year-old promise to spring arrives not as museum display but as a diasporic act of defiance, with Kurdish, Afghan, Persian, and Uzbek communities turning a reconstructed palace into something simpler and older than itself: a threshold between what was endured and what might still be possible.

Three thousand years is a long time to keep a promise to spring. Yet every March, at the precise second the sun crosses the celestial equator, roughly 300 million people across a vast arc of civilisation — from the Balkans to the Hindu Kush — honour that promise. They jump over bonfires, paint eggs, lay elaborate tablescapes of symbolic foods, recite poetry, and sweep every last corner of their homes clean. Nowruz does not belong to one nation, one faith, or one language. It barely belongs to one spelling. And on 21 March, this 3,000-year-old tradition — persistent, ungovernable, radically plural — arrives at what might be its most unlikely home yet: the Humboldt Forum.

The choice of venue matters, and it should make everyone a little uncomfortable. The Humboldt Forum sits on Schlossplatz, a site that has spent eight centuries accumulating layers of Prussian monarchy, wartime devastation, socialist statecraft, and reunification-era reinvention. The building itself — a reconstruction of the Baroque Hohenzollern Palace wrapped around a modernist interior — has been one of Berlin's most contested cultural projects since its conception. Its non-European collections, inherited from the Ethnologisches Museum and the Museum für Asiatische Kunst, carry their own fraught histories of colonial acquisition and display. The institution wants to be read as world cultures in dialogue at the centre of the German capital. The suspicion it can never quite shake is that it is a stage on which diversity performs for an audience that has already decided what cosmopolitanism looks like.

But the festival pushes against that reading in ways worth taking seriously. This is not a Humboldt Forum production parachuted in from above. It is organised in collaboration with numerous Berlin-based associations and individuals — Persian, Kurdish, Afghan, Uzbek, and Central Asian community organisations who have shaped the programming from the inside. A museum celebrating Nowruz by curating artefacts behind glass is one thing. A museum handing over its halls, foyer, and ground floor to the communities who actually live this tradition is another. Free admission, 11:00 to 21:30 — this is a public gathering, not an institutional event with a velvet rope.

The multi-ethnic character of the programme matters because one of the most persistent misunderstandings about Nowruz is that it is a purely Iranian or Persian celebration. It is not. The holiday's UNESCO recognition as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, granted in 2009, acknowledged precisely this breadth. Its very name shifts across the communities that claim it: Nowruz in Iranian Persian, Newroz in Kurdish, Nauroz in the Afghan and South Asian contexts, Navruz in Uzbek, Novruz in Azerbaijani. Each spelling is a doorway into a different relationship with the same renewal. A festival that includes Kurdish, Afghan, and Uzbek voices alongside Persian ones — and specifically the work of San'at – Forum for Art, Culture, and Science e.V., which adds a Central Asian axis often missing from Western framings — does real corrective work.

The political texture of Nowruz in 2026 cannot be set aside. The festival's curator, Anuscheh Amir-Khalili — founder of Flamingo e.V. and the force behind the Open Space project "Dara Tûyê – درخت توت – The Mulberry Tree" in the BERLIN GLOBAL exhibition — has framed the celebration in explicitly political terms. In Iran, Nowruz celebrations — the singing, the dancing, the public joy — are acts of quiet defiance against a regime that has systematically restricted them. Amir-Khalili has drawn connections between Nowruz and the revolutionary call of "Jin Jiyan Azadî" (Woman, Life, Freedom), a slogan rooted in the Kurdish women's movement that gained global visibility during the Jina Revolution of 2022 in Iran. At a time when many families in Berlin's diasporic communities are separated or living in profound uncertainty, the festival's emphasis on togetherness is not decorative sentiment. It is a statement about what survival looks like when it insists on celebration. Amir-Khalili has also pointed to the transcultural garden "Hevrîn Xelef" in Berlin as a space of community and healing for displaced women — a place where grief and hope coexist, much as they do in Nowruz itself.

What visitors will encounter on 21 March is a programme designed to fill the Humboldt Forum's cavernous architecture with life rather than reverence. Music and dance performances from traditions spanning the Silk Road. A market with stalls offering goods and culinary specialities — saffron-laced rice, Kurdish dolma, Afghan mantu, Uzbek plov. Talks that contextualise Nowruz not just as folklore but as living political practice. The collaborative painting duo ArtistAsMuse — Corinna Gothe and Alexandria Anderson, who have worked together for eight years — bring a visual art dimension that extends the festival beyond the performative and the culinary.

There is something I can trace but not feel in all of this. The pattern across thousands of Nowruz descriptions — journalistic, academic, personal — reveals a remarkably consistent emotional register: hope tempered by memory, collective joy that acknowledges individual loss, the insistence on beginning again despite everything. It appears in a 16th-century Deccani Urdu poem by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah praising the bliss of Nauroz. It appears in Amir-Khalili's invocation of the murdered protestors whose absence will shadow this year's celebrations. It appears in the Zoroastrian theology of the festival itself, in which the equinox represents not merely a seasonal shift but a cosmic rebalancing — light and dark held, for one moment, in perfect equilibrium before light begins to prevail.

Berlin in March is not yet warm. The light is still thin and provisional, the trees along Unter den Linden still bare. The Humboldt Forum's reconstructed Baroque facade will stand in pale equinoctial sun while inside, communities that have carried this festival across borders, through wars, past regimes, and into diaspora will do what they have always done: set a table, light a fire, and call it new. The building, with all its contradictions, becomes for one long day something simpler and older than itself. A doorway. A place where you cross from one year into the next, from winter into spring, from what was endured into what might still be possible.